Today I’m sharing a project I can happily check off of my to-sew list…the Mackinaw Coat! When Designs by Call Ajaire announced she was rereleasing this pattern to include layers and updated sizing, I jumped all over that. I mean, this is by no means a quick sew, and I knew this would put the pressure on me to actually finish the coat in a short matter of time. Sometimes I need that when tackling larger sewing projects, haha!
The Mackinaw Coat has all the bells and whistles of a tailored coat, and it includes sizes 12 months all the way through 16 years. It’s a fully lined unisex coat with two shawl collar options, two tie options, pockets with or without flaps, and oversized sleeves (it’s supposed to feel like they’re wrapped in a cozy blanket). My favorite features are the oversized shawl collar and the lovely back belt loop. So clever!
This coat looks amazing in wool with an oversized faux fur collar, but I decided to use some fabric from my stash because it runneth over! If you know me, this means that selecting fabric took me several days. The outer or main coat can be made in a huge variety of fabrics including coating, corduroy, denim, twill, and canvas, the lining can also be any lining type of fabric, quilting cotton, double gauze, and the collar faux fur, shearling, fleece, or any of the main fabrics. Aaaaaand that’s not even an exhaustive list either!
After debating I finally settled on some lavender Carhartt canvas I picked up from Cali Fabrics for my main (they’re out of lavender but still have it in black), polartec fleece I found at Fashion Fabrics for the collar, and a mermaid quilting cotton fabric (she adores manatees and their folklore) from Robert Kaufmann. I was a bit nervous about the Carhartt canvas as it has a “sturdy 12oz weight”, but like Cali Fabrics described it, it does have a “softer hand and more flexibility” than other canvases of its weight. I used a 90/14 universal needle with this canvas and fleece as well, and fortunately didn’t have any real issues with those thicker seams, much to my relief.
I made view C with view B’s belt. I just love the fanciful pleats and oversized collar in view C with the simplicity of B’s belt. Her measurements are: chest 21.25″, waist 20.5″, hips 23.25″, and height 46.5″. I made size 3 with a size 6 height, and she’s 7 years old; definitely go by the pattern’s measurements. In regards to altering the pattern for size adjustments, there are very detailed instructions to make it as straightforward as possible. Typically I would’ve used a size 4 chest if I had to adjust all the way to a 6 for height to make it simple on myself, but the pattern mentions that it’s a dropped armscye to create a “blanket wrapped around them” feel, so I decided to go with the size 3 chest and not worry about adjusting the armscye, plus I felt like with an oversized coat like this, sizing up at the chest may have swallowed her tiny self.
I’ve been sewing Call Ajaire’s patterns for years now, and I love her attention to detail. With this coat I found I had to pay very close attention to each step, read her tips, and not rush through it. Going through each step methodically made putting together the coat pretty stress free. My only hiccup was the bagged lining, and that was because I was rushing to finish it late at night. It’s pretty much the last step and I wanted to see it all done, but I had to put it aside and revisit it the next morning with fresh eyes, and it came together easily. I finally added the snaps, although I had originally wanted to include bound buttonholes, snaps seemed more befitting a Carhartt canvas coat.
I love, love, love this coat, and I added a sweet little mama made label inside that I picked up at Stonemountain & Daughter last year. If you haven’t checked out their labels, please do! These adorable labels with a purpose are next on my list.
To celebrate the Mackinaw Coat’s pattern rerelease, it’s on sale 50% off through November 15th, no code necessary. She’s also including the Buzz Puffer Coat pattern in the celebration and it’s also 50% off! I haven’t made it yet, but it’s on my to-sew list. With the weather cooling down, I’m so excited to be spending more time in my sewing room sewing all the cozy and warm things!
So tell me, do you enjoy sewing outerwear? I know when this pattern was first released I put it on the back burner, but let me say that I’m so happy to have finally made it. It really didn’t take long and was very satisfying to see completed!
penny sew vintage 