One of my favorite ladies’ patterns is the Ruby Dress & Top from Made By Rae. I’ve made it several times (with sleeves, refashioned with knit and the too small version, refashioned men’s shirt), but the moment I saw Made By Rae’s divided yoke version, I had to make one! I absolutely love it, and it’s so the type of top I would wear over and over again.
I pulled out this Robert Kaufman double gauze from my stash. It’s cute, dotted, soft, but my main concern is that it has the possibility of looking like pajamas. I figured the Ruby pattern along with sleeves (from the Washi Expansion pack) and ties had enough going on that it wouldn’t look like pjs. To get this look I had to make some very simple modifications to the original pattern.
I added a lining to the yoke pieces instead of finishing them with bias tape. This meant I cut 2 back yoke pieces on the fold. For the front yoke pieces, instead of cutting them on the fold, I added 1/2″ seam allowance at the fold line, and that became my new cut line (the fold line became my center front line). I cut 4 pieces for the front yoke, 2 of them were reversed for the lining. I also cut two tie pieces 2″ x 15″, sleeves, and the front and back top pieces.
For construction, I began by making the ties the same way one would fold bias tape, then folding in one raw end inside about 1/2″, and sewing around the edge to finish it. I used a leader (extra fabric to create an equally thick height behind my tie that helps the feed dogs pull my tie through and keeps my presser foot even) to help me start it, and tissue paper to keep my feed dogs from pulling any gauzy fabric down, mainly as a precaution.
I sewed the front and back yoke pieces at the shoulder seams. Then I placed the unfinished edge of the ties into the upper corners of the front yoke pieces, 1/2″ down from the top (because of seam allowance). I matched up the raw edge of the ties with the raw edge of the center front divided yoke. I sewed the main and lining pieces together beginning at the bottom front of one side of the divided yoke, around the neckline, then back down to the other side of the divided yoke. I also added 1/2″ of stitching at the inside center bottom of the divided yoke seam to keep my pieces together. You can see it just above my thumb.
I basted at the bottom because they’d still have the chance of separating while attaching my gathered top portion. I also basted all of my raw edges together around the entire yoke, mainly because it’s double gauze and I didn’t want any sneaky shifting (pic only shows it pinned, before basting).
Everything went together pretty simply, and I’m really happy with the way it turned out! I should also note that I combined two sizes. The yoke pieces are size S, and the sleeves and front and back pieces are XS. I imagine this combination came from one of my previous Ruby tops, and it works for me.
I’ve washed and worn it several times, and when I took these pics, I’d worn it all morning running errands. I don’t really mind the wrinkles, as I think it just gives the top a laid back, low maintenance look, right?!
And the back…
Overall I’m happy with it, and it’s incredibly comfortable. I’m definitely going to make more without sleeves for the warmer weather and try out that enclosed front seam so I can wear it with the ties untied.
Have you sewn any of Made by Rae’s patterns? I sometimes hear from people that they’re so expensive and she never has sales, but I have to say that the patterns that I do have by her I’ve made countless times. Her patterns are great in that you can mix pattern pieces to create a whole new look (for instance I used the Washi Expansion pack for the sleeves, but I believe if you have the Josephine Blouse, you can use those sleeves with the Ruby too), plus her patterns are impeccable and very professional, so definitely worth the money in my opinion.
Also check out her new Cleo Creativebug class! If you’re already a member, you can pick up her Cleo skirt pattern with the class. One guess what I’ll be making for this summer?